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home : sip & savor : sip & savor August 1, 2014

4/25/2013 6:15:00 PM
FOOD MATTERS | The Russians (and Poles) are coming!
One of the many burgers offered at Relish, the new restaurant at The Westin Seattle. Photo by Ronald Holden

One of the many burgers offered at Relish, the new restaurant at The Westin Seattle. Photo by Ronald Holden


By Ronald Holden


First things first: A Russian guy by the name of Andrey Toskar is about to open an Eastern-European-style spot called Vostok Dumpling House in the Harvard Market (1416 Harvard Ave.) on Capitol Hill. It’s going into the Little Shanghai space next to Marination Station. Thank goodness, the Cold War is over. 

But wait, there’s more.

Down on Eastlake Avenue, the former Romio’s Pizza and short-lived Borsalino’s is now Sebi’s (3242 Eastlake Ave. E.). That’s short for “Sebastian,” brother of one of the owners, whose name is David Kanczugowski. Their mom, Kamila, is the cook. 

It features a row of tap handles offering draught beers from Poland and the Czech Republic (Lomza, Zywiec, Perla, Okocim, Golden Pheasant) and a menu of pierogis, schnitzels and cabbage rolls.

 

More on the menu

On Capitol Hill, where the quaint Thomas Street Bistro once welcomed a half-dozen diners with uninspired prix-fixe meals, is a new venture: Resto (421 E. Thomas St.), serving breakfast, lunch, dinner.

In SODO, a new pub called Gastropod (3201 First Ave. S., Suite 104). Epic Ales brewer Cody Morris and chef Travis Kukull have transformed Morris’ tiny tasting room into a stylish pub that is able to squeeze in up to 30 people. 

The discount liquor chain BevMo! has opened its sixth Washington location, at 850 N.W. 46th St. in Ballard.

By the time you read this, Frolik should be open. It’s in the downtown Red Lion (1415 Fifth Ave.), where Terrace Garden used to be. It offers a great urban view across Fourth Avenue.

Something to put on your radar for June: Tanaka-San, in the still-building Via6 (2121 Sixth Ave.) in the Regrade, from Tom Douglas Restaurants, named for his longtime executive chef Eric Tanaka. Brian Walczyk, from Bravehorse Tavern, will run the kitchen.

Walczyk’s sidekick from Bravehorse, Eric Stover, will man the stoves at The Sixgill (3417 Evanston Ave. N.), a new tap house from the Noble Fir people. It features small plates.

Big cocktail news at the Pike Place Market: Rachel Marshall will move her Ginger Beer dispensary into the Seattle’s Best Coffee space (1530 Post Alley) later this summer.

Also coming soon: RockCreek (4300 Fremont Ave. N.) in Fremont, featuring Eric Donnelly of Toulouse Petit (and, before that, Oceanaire). 

At The Westin (1900 Fifth Ave.), a new concept takes over from Coldwater. Are you ready for…Relish? Yup, corporate burgers. 

Speaking of burgers, expansion plans for L’il Woody’s, the burger joint on Capitol Hill that just won Seattle Weekly’s “Best Burger” elimination, will open a second location (2040 N.W. Market St.) in Ballard, sharing the space with Molly Moon’s Ice Cream.

Skillet Diner (1400 E. Union St.) is getting a new patio for outdoor dining.

The next edition of Seattle’s Mobile Food Rodeo will take place on May 5 in Fremont. More than 35 food trucks are expected to participate. You can skip the lines (but not the pay window) by forking over $25 ahead of time for a “Wrangler” badge.

 

New endeavors

Schwartz Bros. — the Seattle outfit that’s parent to three Daniel’s steakhouses and Chandler’s Crabhouse, Gretchen’s Shoebox Express catering and a big corporate baking operation — has hired a new corporate-level executive chef. He’s Peter Coulter, a veteran of Campbell Soup’s Stockpot Express, most recently involved with Flying Food Group (the folks responsible for what you eat on a lot of airplanes). 

At Flying Food, Coulter was in charge of developing the Starbucks Chilled Lunch program — in other words, qualities one associates with box lunches (Gretchen’s), rather than high-end steakhouses (Daniel’s). 

But Schwartz Bros. president Lindsey Schwartz told Cornichon earlier this month that the company’s restaurants account for less than a third of its revenues these days.

Kathy Casey could probably whip up a book about edible shoelaces, and it would look gorgeous and they would taste d’lish. Without a lot of fanfare, she’s built a formidable empire of food: Kathy Casey Food Studios (and Liquid Kitchen) in Ballard (5130 Ballard Ave. N.W.), consulting gigs, recipe development, cocktail development and a series of books. 

Her shop at the airport (Food t’ Go Go) offers the tastiest choices for in-flight noshing. She had a stall at the Pike Place Market that didn’t quite pan out; she closed it and moved on. Ditto on an ahead-of-its-time café on Ballard Avenue. 

She’s one of the few chefs in Seattle (T-Doug, Ethan Stowell) who are a brand unto themselves. And her latest effort is this: a delightful, little book about the most mundane of American concoctions: deviled eggs.

RONALD HOLDEN is a restaurant writer and consultant who blogs at Cornichon.org and Crosscut.com. To comment on this column, write to CityLivingEditor@nwlink.com.






Reader Comments

Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013
Article comment by: ilene antonitas

So we go to Harry's chicken joint, and
we were told they had a problem with their chicken and they only had the breast meat.


The waiter knew nothing about the menu, and the food was terrible. We ordered the chicken, tomato soup, the cheese sandwich, the baked beans and potato salad.

The soup tasted like sauce, the sandwich was not edible, the beans were luke-warm and the chicken had a very weird taste.

I've been around the world and have eaten in probably half the restaurants in Seattle, and it was the worst food and awful experience I've had in 20 years. I never e-mail comments about restaurants, but this was so bad, somebody needs to warn the public. I could go on and on but haven't the time.




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